Kansas Travel Guide, Road Trip Itinerary
This is a Kansas Road Trip Travel Guide that takes the traveler to visit three National Park Service Sites, four National Historic Landmarks, a National Natural Landmark, an active military base, the United States’ largest wetland, and three incredible rock formations. At the end, I will list, by-region, other great Kansas destinations not featured in this road trip itinerary but worth looking into.
We begin this Road Trip in Southwest Kansas at Dodge City and then travel north to visit Fort Larned National Historic Site and Cheyenne Bottoms Wildlife Area before making stops for views of amazing geologic formations at Mushroom Rock State Park, Castle Rock and Monument Rocks. From the Southwest, we travel East, visiting Nicodemus National Historic Site, Wamego for the OZ Museum, Topeka for the Brown vs Board of Education National Historic Site, and Fort Leavenworth. We finish this road trip in Kansas City for delicious barbeque.
Kansas Road Trip Route using Google Maps
I suggest that this road trip be completed in one to two weeks; however, if you are passing through, I highly recommend spending a couple days in an area that interests you or finding a few stops along your drive. I hope to give you enough information for you to decide what Kansas sights are worth your time.
Kansas got its name from a Native American Tribe which means, “People of the Wind.” Kansas’ nickname, the sunflower state, comes from the native wild sunflower that grows throughout the state. Only four percent of the original North American Tallgrass Prairie still survive and over half of that amount is found in Kansas. Kansas is the 34th most populous state and is made up of 88% farmland. Their top 5 agricultural products are cattle, wheat, corn for grain, soybeans, and hogs. It might surprise some people, but Kansas ranks second, after Texas, to number of active tornados per year. Dodge City, Kansas is the windiest city in the United States where winds average at 14 mph. Two-thirds of the mid-19th century historic Santa Fe Trail route ran through Kansas. In 1861, Kansas entered the Union as a free state. The conflict known as Bleeding Kansas from 1854 to 1861 is considered to have been the prelude to the Civil War. Wichita, Kansas is home to the first hamburger fast food chain, White Castle, which opened in 1921; however, there are no White Castles in the state. Pizza Hut also started in Wichita in 1958.
Dodge City
Facade of the Front Street replica with an old chuck wagon at the Boot Hill historical museum in Dodge City, Kansas
Our first destination is a Legendary City of the American Old West. Dodge City, Kansas is famous as a Western frontier settlement with a checkered past. Many legendary Old West Characters and lawmen, like Wyatt Earp, Doc Holliday, and the Masterson brothers, spent time in this city with many nicknames. At different points, Dodge City was known as the Wickedest Little City in America, the Buffalo Capital, and Queen of the Cowtowns.
The popular radio and television show Gunsmoke was set in Dodge City and was inspired by its’ wild frontier town reputation. The series debut on radio in 1952, airing until 1961 and ran on television for a historic 20 years from 1955 to 1975.
Dodge City was established in 1865, five miles west of Fort Dodge and along the Santa Fe trail, a major commerce route. Dodge City was an important trade center and catered to buffalo hunters, cowboys, and travelers with dance halls, saloons, and a train station.
To learn more about the areas’ intriguing history, visit the Boot Hill Museum which is open year-round. The museum is located on the original site of the Boot Hill Cemetery and features an array of activities and exhibits. In the museum, you will get a glimpse of some of Dodge City’s greatest relics, as well as walk along a replica of the city’s 1876 Front Street. From Memorial Day through Labor Day, the museum reenacts shootouts on Front Street and offers a variety show in the Long Branch Saloon. The Boot Hill Museum also includes an Old West Photo Parlor, General Store, Ice Cream Parlor, and a simulated buffalo stampede exhibit.
Before exploring the rest of Dodge City, stop at the Visitor’s Center to pick up the Historic Walking Tour map, as well as additional information on destinations that interest you. The Boothill museum and visitor’s center share a parking lot. You can start the self-guided tour from there. The route will take you to statues of famous Dodge City figures, sidewalk dedication medallions, and historical information signs. From Memorial Day to Labor Day, you can sightsee Dodge City on their historic trolley tour. Tickets are bought at the Visitor’s Center.
Across the street from the Visitor’s Center is the historic Santa Fe Depot which opened in 1898. Spend a few minutes walking around the restored Harvey House and El Vaquero restaurant that opened in 1901. The Santa Fe Depot building is on the National Register of Historic Places.
Nine miles West of Dodge City are surviving Santa Fe Trail wagon-wheel ruts, carved across the grasslands. The site also features remains of the Eureka Irrigation Canal.
Some other great Dodge City area attractions include:
Historic Fort Dodge, which now serves as the Kansas Soldiers Home, and was originally built in 1867 to protect wagon trains and mail service along the Santa Fe trail.
The well-preserved 1881 limestone, Mueller-Schmidt House, also known as the Home of Stone, offers tours daily in the summer.
The Coronado Cross which marks the spot where 16th century explorer Francisco Vazquez de Coronado and team crossed the Arkansas River in search for the mythical cities of gold.
The Cattle Feedlot Overlook for a great view of a large cattle operation.
La Salsa Man, commissioned and donated by movie star, Dennis Hopper, who was born in Dodge City.
From Dodge City, we drive north to Fort Larned National Historic Site.
Fort Larned National Historic Site
Fort Larned National Historic Site is the best-preserved Indian Wars’ Era fort along the Santa Fe Trail and includes nine of its original sandstone buildings
Fort Larned was built in 1859 with the mission to guard mail coaches and military supply wagons along the Santa Fe Trail, in addition to maintaining the peace with the local tribes. Once the railroad reached the area in 1867, the Army Post served as an Indian Agency that issued annuities to local Native Americans until 1871. It is then when Fort Larned’s focus turned to protecting workers on the Railroad. Fort Larned closed in 1884 and became a cattle and horse ranch until control was given to the National Park Service in 1966.
Fort Larned is the best-preserved Indian Wars’ Era fort along the Santa Fe Trail and includes nine of its original sandstone buildings. Many of the additional post structures did not survive since they were built out of adobe or wood. Visitors can walk around the post quadrangle and tour restored 1860’s furnished buildings. When walking into the Fort from the parking lot, you will find the Visitor’s Center at the end of the boardwalk, the first building on the North side of the Parade Ground. The visitor’s center includes exhibits on Fort Larned’s history, life on the fort, the Santa Fe Trail, and the Plains Native Americans.
While in the area, consider visiting the nearby Santa Fe Trail Center Museum and Research Library, two miles down K-156. The museum is open Tuesday through Saturday, nine to five.
After Fort Larned, we visit the beautiful Cheyenne Bottoms Wildlife Area.
Cheyenne Bottoms Preserve and Wildlife Area
Cheyenne Bottoms Wildlife Refuge in Central Kansas is 20,000 acres of marsh and grassland as a natural habitat for shore bird migration
Cheyenne Bottoms Preserve and Wildlife Area has the largest marsh in the interior of the United States with its natural land sink spanning 64 square miles. It is the busiest migratory bird flight path in the country. Cheyenne Bottoms Wildlife Area is part of the Wetlands and Wildlife National Scenic Byway. During migration periods, the marshy hub is a habitat for waterfowl and shorebirds with 45 percent of the North American shorebird population stopping there. Spring and fall migration periods offer the best opportunity for bird watching but there are a variety of birds to see year-round.
The Kansas Wetlands Education Center, outside of the wildlife area, can provide information on what birds are currently in the area. The center also has interesting exhibits on wetland communities and conservation efforts. While there, pick up an audio drive guide for the byway.
Hunting is allowed in around 13,000 acres of the Cheyenne Bottoms Wildlife Area but not in the actual refuge. Popular animals to hunt for are ducks, geese, pheasants, and rail. The wildlife area also includes fishing opportunities for mainly carp and bullheads.
The Cheyenne Bottoms Wildlife Area provides 6 free non-electric camping spots with a 14-day limit.
After spending time bird watching in Cheyenne Bottoms, we migrate to the unique Mushroom Rock State Park.
Mushroom Rock State Park
The Centerpiece at Mushroom Rock State Park in Kansas
Mushroom Rock State Park is only five acres but boasts beautiful oddly shaped sandstone rock formations that resemble giant mushrooms. The rocks are the remains of beach sands and sediments from a sea that covered Kansas 100 million years ago. The top portions are of naturally cemented sandstone while the stems are of softer sandstone that have eroded faster.
These incredible rock formations are near the historic Smoky Hill Wagon Trail and once served as a landmark and meeting place for Native Americans and early pioneers.
To reach the park, you will need to drive off the beaten path and on a gravel route. Parking is on the side of the road and there are rock formations on both sides. The park includes vault toilets and picnic tables.
Additional interesting formations and sandstone rocks can also be viewed at nearby Kanopolis Lake State Park.
Our next destination is the glorious Castle Rock.
Castle Rock
Castle Rock - limestone pillar landmark in prairie of western Kansas near Quinter (Gove County)
Castle Rock is a large limestone pillar which was formed by weathering of the chalk and is slowing eroding. Historically, Castle Rock was a landmark for those traveling on Overland Trails during the 19th century, making their way to the Oregon, California, and Mormon trails. Castle Rock is in the Kansas Badlands and Smoky Hills region and the formation is surrounded by and on ranch land.
Castle Rock is an out of the way sight but is impressive as you approach it peering out of the landscape. The drive is about 45 minutes off I-70 and you will pass empty land and barren chalk canyons. To reach Castle Rock, you will need to travel dirt roads which is not recommended during wet conditions or if you have a vehicle that is low to the ground. The trip to this location is rougher than any of the others.
After admiring Castle Rock, we drive to witness the remarkable Monument Rocks.
Monument Rocks Natural Landmark
Monument Rocks (Chalk Pyramids) in western Kansas prairie
The Natural Geological site is a series of huge pyramid-shaped chalk limestone formations which reach a height of up to 70 feet and includes buttes and arches. Monument Rocks was the first landmark chosen by the US Department of the Interior as a National Natural Landmark and the Chalk Pyramids were known as a landmark for travelers along the Smoky Hill Trail. Many fossils have been discovered in Monument Rocks to include the “Fish within a Fish” fossil and giant swimming reptiles.
Monument Rocks is about an hour drive off I-70 and worth the detour into the middle of nowhere. The roads are unpaved but manageable for most vehicles. The National Landmark is on private property, but the landowner allow visitors. You can walk up to the towering chalk formations and touch them, but no climbing.
We now shift from enjoying geological formations to immersing ourselves into American history at Nicodemus National Historic Site.
Nicodemus National Historic Site
Nicodemus Historic District, National Historic Landmark, Visitor Center
Nicodemus is the oldest and only surviving black town in the West that was built by emancipated slaves. These African Americans left Kentucky after the Civil War to experience freedom and opportunity in the “promised land” of Kansas. Nicodemus was founded in 1877 and in 1878, the population reached nearly 700.
After 1880, the town saw a decline due to limited resources, years of poor harvests, and a failed campaign to bring one of the three railroads through the town. These days, only 45 residents are descendants of the Nicodemus immigrants. However, during the last weekend in July, former residents and their descendants return to Nicodemus for celebrations and parades.
The Nicodemus visitor’s center recounts the history and experience of African Americans in the West and is open Thursday through Monday, nine am to five pm. The National Park system has five historic buildings in the town and the grounds are always open yet keep in mind that Nicodemus remains a living community.
Our next destination is the OZ Museum in Wamego.
OZ Museum, Wamego
Inside the OZ Museum in Downtown Wamego
In the small city of Wamego, there is a museum dedicated to L. Frank Baum’s 1900 Children’s Book, The Wonderful Wizard of Oz and the classic 1939 film, Wizard of Oz. The OZ Museum displays over 2,000 artifacts, memorabilia, movie props and costumes, as well as first-edition books.
Across the street from the museum is a yellow brick road that leads to the city park. Along the walk, you will view Toto statues and Wizard of Oz themed murals. On the Visit Wamago website, there is a map of all the Toto statues around town. There are 15 different designs that you can hunt for. The city park has four Totos, as well as the Wamego Historical Museum and Prairie Village, and the historic Schonhoff Dutch Mill.
Other Wamego landmarks, parks, and attractions include an Oregon Trail Nature Park, Beecher Bible and Rifle Church, Mount Mitchell Heritage Prairie, Oz Winery, and Toto’s Tacoz for lunch.
In October, the city holds a festival called OZtoberFest, where Wizard of Oz costumes are appreciated. There is also an annual tulip festival in the city park in mid-April.
Before you leave Wamego, note that the White House next to the McDonald’s is the birthplace of Walter P. Chrysler, the founder of the Chrysler Corporation.
From Wamego, we travel east to Topeka for the Brown versus Board of Education National Historic Site.
Brown v. Board of Education National Historic Site, Topeka
Brown v. Board of Education National Historic Site located in the former Monroe Elementary School
The Brown versus Board of Education National Historic Site’s Visitor’s Center is in the former all-black Monroe Elementary School which was one of four schools for African American children in Topeka. The site commemorates the 1954 U.S. Supreme Court decision that ended racial segregation in public schools.
The outcome of Brown vs Board of Education was significant because it marked the end of the principle of “Separate but Equal” which had previously been ruled in the 1896 Plessy versus Ferguson case. The Supreme Court ruled, in a nine to zero vote, that racial segregation in public schools violated the Fourteenth Amendment to the Constitution; which prohibits states from denying equal protection of the laws to any person.
The National Historic Site has information and exhibits throughout the first floor of the old school. Allow yourself an hour for the visit. On the National Park’s website for Brown versus the Board of Education, there is a link to a printout map that points out other historic civil rights sites as well as Bleeding Kansas and Civil War points of interests in Topeka. There are 16 stops on the driving tour and you can follow along on the Freedom’s Frontier website (Freedom's Frontier (oncell.com)) or using the app. Some of the highlights include the Great Mural Wall of Topeka, the Historic Ritchie House, and the Kansas State Capitol building for the 2018 Brown versus Board of Education mural and John Steuart Curry’s 1940 masterpiece, Tragic Prelude, mural of abolitionist John Brown.
While you are in Topeka, you might also be interested in visiting the Evel Knievel museum that celebrates the stunt performer or dining at Topeka’s favorite restaurant, Lonnie Q’s BBQ.
After learning about civil rights history in Topeka, we travel to Fort Leavenworth for military history.
Fort Leavenworth
Fort Leavenworth Army Base is on the border between Kansas and Missouri
Fort Leavenworth is an Army installation but it’s more recognizable as a prison which is actually called the United States Disciplinary Barracks. Leavenworth is the military’s only maximum-security correctional facility.
Fort Leavenworth was established in 1827. It is the oldest continuously active post west of the Mississippi and is the oldest permanent settlement in Kansas. Fort Leavenworth was established along the Santa Fe Trail to protect western migration and to maintain peace with the local Native American Tribes.
Most historic military leaders were stationed or spent time at Fort Leavenworth. The United States Army Command and General Staff College was established at Fort Leavenworth in 1881 and is the Army’s graduate school.
In 1846, a Mormon Battalion arrived at Fort Leavenworth to receive arms, training, supplies, and equipment before departing to California. The Mormon Battalion was used against the Mexican forces in the Mexican War.
In 1992, the Buffalo Soldier Monument on Fort Leavenworth was dedicated to the memory of the African-American Soldiers who served in the 9th and 10th Cavalry Regiments which were based out of the installation. These Soldiers served the Western Frontier following the American Civil War and were given the nickname “Buffalo Soldiers” by the Native Americans. According to popular lore, it was either because of the Soldiers’ dark curly hair which resembled a buffalo mane or because the Soldiers fought like the fierce Great Plains buffalo. The Monument is of a 16-foot bronze cavalry member riding a horse.
In November 2018, the 6888th Central Postal Directory Battalion monument was dedicated. It honors the first and only all-female African-American Battalion to deploy overseas during WWII. On March 14th, 2022, President Biden signed a bill into law that awards the women of the 6888th Battalion a congressional gold medal.
It’s very interesting to either drive or walk around Fort Leavenworth. There are several monuments, historic buildings, and a National Cemetery. Near the Buffalo Soldier memorial, you will see a bust statue of General Colin Powell, the first Black US Secretary of State. And on Kearny and Grant Ave, there is a life-sized statue of General Ulysses S. Grant, the 18th President of the United States. While you at Fort Leavenworth, consider visiting the interesting Frontier Army Museum which is closed on Sunday and Monday.
To obtain a visitors pass to visit the historic sights and museum at Fort Leavenworth, stop at the Visitors Control Center at the Grant gate. All that is needed is the driver's license of the vehicle’s driver and identification for all others. Everyone will receive a quick background check. After receiving your visitors pass, you will also be given a map of Fort Leavenworth that will guide your drive.
Before ending this road trip, I recommend stopping for some amazing Kansas City Barbeque.
Kansas City Barbecue (KC BBQ)
Burnt Ends is a signature Kansas City BBQ Dish
Most of Kansas City is in Missouri but there are still some of the best barbecue restaurants on the Kansas side. Either way, treat yourself to some delicious barbecue.
Kansas City is a great barbecue town. Their version of barbecue is slow smoked meats which mainly consists of pork, beef, and chicken but can also include, sausage, turkey, lamb, and sometimes fish.
Beef Brisket is particularly popular. The Burnt Ends are considered by some to be the best part of the brisket and is a signature menu item in Kansas City.
Burnt ends is the top of the brisket which was once discarded since it wasn’t desirable for sandwiches. Nowadays, it’s carved off and then placed back into the smoker to get a flavorful char that makes the meat crispy yet moist inside. Burnt ends has a concentrated smoked flavor and requires special attention to avoid making it dry. In Kansas City, you’ll find burnt ends incorporated into side dishes such as macaroni and cheese and baked beans.
Some people consider Kansas City Barbeque Sauce sweeter and thicker than other styles of barbeque sauce but keep in mind, that’s not always the case.
If you have great KC Barbeque restaurant suggestions, please share them in the comments section.
The following are Kansas sights not featured in this post but worth looking into:
Kansas has a peaceful charm with its wide-open spaces, bright skies, and beautiful prairies. I hope this travel guide was insightful and gave you useful information on Kansas sights you could visit.
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Happy Planning!
